Land rover series suddenly stopped… (mogok)

Few days ago I have little incidence that make me quite confuse… The Dolly Parton suddenly (name of the landy) stopped, no sign, no clue no warning, no coughing, no nothing… it just stop dead, it happened just after I refill the fuel… So there is no way it lack of fuel.

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The Landy is just stopped…

So what to do..? having landy for few years you kind of know what is potentially went wrong.. so I did few several tests… hope that it will help you in the future if you have the same case…

Something that we need to understand is… rarely landy stop dead because of the engine.. most of the times it caused by two things:

  1. Electrical problem
  2. Fuel problem…

So I run few test as below (click for a bigger picture):

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Three simple test to Check the electric fault… if just click for larger file

Now from this test I know that there is three possibilities:

  • The coil is dead
  • the distributor is dead / faulty
  • and no current from key starter

But which one is it..? the easiest is to check “whether there is current from the key starter…” by jump starting the coil like the following…:

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Jump starting the coil, by passing the current from dashboard by directly connecting it to the positive battery…

The engine can not be started… so I still left with three possible problems… but I know for sure that either the coil and or distributor is faulty… so next step is to open the distributor cap… mine is using electronic distributor and …

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Found that a one cable is loose, not connected properly… re connected again and start the engine.. voila.. engine runs… Picture is for illustration only (I have no time to take picture at that time)


I  thought that this is the end of story, so I disconnect the cable jumper… like so..

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 after disconnected… the engine is dead again…!! 

Alas.. after disconnected, the engine is dead again.. means that there is other potential problem causing the engine dead.

First thing first need to check the fuse by using test light.. and sure enough I found out that the second fuse from the top  is dead… and I have to improvise the fuse using cable strand like the following…

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Improvised fuse…!!! :)

 

And I pray that no other problem… turning the key starter… and voila…  I hear the engine purring happily…  :), thats it folks… Happy landying… I hope never happened to you but if your landy start playing tricks.. you know what to do

 

Cheers for now..

 

 

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Replacing Wheel Brake Master cylinder

When you know something is not right and it only for temporary solution, we all want to make it right and solve it… The braking system for Dolly has been OK after using Toyota seals as you can read it here : http://vidinur.com/2013/07/31/when-girling-does-not-fit-the-girlings/ but in the back of my mind… I always think what if it suddenly fail…

So finally I bought new set of Girling Wheel master cylinder… I got the genuine part cost around US$ 35 each… expensive I know but it is actually hard to get, when some one offer me the original part, I quickly take that offer. Here is the new Girling Brake wheel master cylinder….. Funny thing is, although it says Girling in the item… the packaging is Unipart… I guess Unipart is making the item for Girling or Vice versa… or someone messed up with the packaging..

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It says Girling… not sure about the number means

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View from Top

Because this is an NOS (new but OLD STOCK), I have to dismantle it first, make sure that nothing seized and rusted inside… after everything satisfactory. Installing is quite straight forward so no need to post picture here, you need to take off the tire and drum… and then bleed the system, you are good to go…

The brake is now good, worries are gone…  That’s it for now… Happy landying.. :)

Which spring and needle ? – SU HS6 For Landrover series

For those who have not read my set up of SU HS6 carburetor for land rover series 3 you can read it Part 1 here and Part Two here:

As you may aware, I bought the carburetor SU HS6 as a complete unit, it comes with BAK needle and green spring, and that what I use for the initial set up… It works but may be not optimal… from the forum and discussion, they are few suggestion:

  1. Copy ACR set up with BGB needle and Black spring
  2. BDM needle with red spring
  3. BDB or BBW but not sure what spring they use..

Just to remind you on the profile of the needle, you can see below  that BGB is very rich needle, BBW second, BAK third, BDM fourth and BDB is the leanest…

needle su

Actually I want to copy ACR set up, however after having discussion with Burlen… there is no such thing as black spring for HS6, I think they do not want to be copied, and may be they change the color of the spring to hide the their set up…

Finally I ordered BDM and BDB needle and  red spring, hence I have three needles and 3 springs (one spring is from old SU)… it will be interesting the try all possible combination.. :).

Here some photos when I am tried needle and spring combination

Three springs SU HS6

Three springs SU HS6 : the Green, the red and the unknown.. (from right to left)

 

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Needle BDM and BDB fro burlen

 

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Off the Dashpot, and we can easily change the spring and needle

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Replace The spring with the another spring we want

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Off the old needle and the new needle is ready to be installed

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The needle center lead… its funny because actually the needle is slightly not centered even using this centering aid..

To make it apple to apple, first I have to make sure that the ignition timing is at 6 deg BTDC as suggested by ACR using their Cyl head.

So.. after the few tries… I finally concluded that the setup is best using green spring and BDB needle... The others also works but at high throttle it missed fire or blow back… or severely lost power compare to this one.  it is quite strange… ACR set up is using the richest needle, I am using the same head from ACR but it best using the Leanest of the option…

Bit confuse, but I find it very smooth and have more power using this set up, it capable of going uphill at 3rd gear,  previously it need the second gear to climb it… So thats it for now, any questions please write it down below.. hope it can be useful for you

 

Cheers for now..

 

Other set up is OK, but in the open throttle, I experienced a missed fire… even if I tried my best to adjust the

Adjusting fuel mixture using Gunson Colortune

The good things about having land Rover Series is you will learn lots of things about basic engine… and purchasing tools or accessories will give us same effect as women buying shoes…

Today I receive Gunson colortune, this  is a tool to help us adjusting or setting  fuel-air mixture from the carburetor, here is the picture…

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This is the product… for land rover series you should order the 14mm thread

take one of you sparkplug… and check it see if it is too dark or too brown…

The spark plug seems quite healthy, I wonder whether this Gunson will give me better setting... lest see..

The spark plug seems quite healthy, I wonder whether this Gunson will give me better setting… lest see..

And this is how its set up…

replace the sparkpulg with supplied glass sparkplug... screw in the extension and connect the extention to cable lead.. you good to go..

replace the Sparkplug with supplied glass sparkplug… screw in the extension and connect the extention to cable lead.. you are good to go..

The result is slightly rich mixture, few adjustment needed and the landy is happy

 

When Girling does not fit the Girlings…

Dolly’s brake is not the best… I have to pump few times before it works decently, and the brake oil is seeping out from rear brake cylinder. Have tried to bleed the system but it does not help either. The option is to replace the whole set of wheel brake cylinder or the seal only… I opt for the later.. :)

Since the brake cylinder is genuine girling,  we are using “girling” seals… not sure if it is genuine, but the words Girling stamped on the seals… So we installed it without any major incidence… Easy, Done..! or so we think…

One day later,  when I drive it out of town, one of the brake locked (bind). Dolly literally  dragging its tire, I can smell the burning brake pad, but I continue to push it further until we find a garage. When we found one, I told the garage owner what is wrong and he help me to fix it…

Later on we found out that the seal is locked solid… it can’t slide (expand and return) inside the cylinder wheel easily. The problem is, there no shop carrying land rover spare part around here. but the garage owner is very resourceful, he said that the seal looks like Toyota’s

He bring the seals to nearest automotive shop and ask for Toyotas (4 tires Toyota truck not the 6 tires) Indonesian call it “Toyotas engkel”, and it fits splendidly… No bind, easy slides, expand and return all working great… not to mention the price is very cheap too, all seals cost me US$ 2.8 (Rp. 28.000).

I am using it for  about 2 weeks now, and no problems… So if you have problem with your  wheel brake cylinder seals.. Use Toyota’s truck seals, make sure the size is the same.. hope it helps

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